Pesto (Genovese)
Parmigiano Reggiano, truffles, prosciutto, risotto, porcini mushrooms, gelato, sun-dried tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, al dente pasta and pesto. Try to imagine a world without those culinary superstars in it. That was my world in the 70’s in Los Angeles (LA).
The Italian food revival was just beginning, and it was becoming possible to find authentic Italian foods in restaurants. It would still be a long time before the thick dark sauces and Italian American standards that were on every neighborhood Italian restaurant menu would be edged out, but this was a new beginning. Squarely in the middle of this culinary shift there was a small cozy trattoria on Western Avenue called La Strega (The Witch), which was run by an Argentine father and son duo. A friend of mine told me I should order the linguine with pesto. He tried to explain what it was, but I didn’t get it. It was so different from anything else I had ever had in an Italian restaurant (refer to my Bolognese post). I trusted my friend, and ordered it. Shortly thereafter, a plate of nicely cooked (al dente) pasta arrived at the table with a thick bright green sauce sitting on top, looking a little like Salsa Verde chile, but much brighter green. I could not even fathom what this could possibly taste like, much less how to eat it. I was instructed to work the puree into the pasta, top with fresh parmesan cheese, and eat. WOW!
That first bite...was transformative, intoxicating, exciting. How could something this amazing have been hidden from me all these years?! I was hooked, but how to get more? Basil was an unknown herb in the 70’s. La Strega was the only place I had seen Pesto and was, for a while, the only place I could order it. Eventually, pesto started to pop up on menus in some great Italian establishments; Valentino’s (1972-2017), Mauros (c 1975), and Chiantis on Melrose. It was making appearances on menus with some other new actors on the food scene, like real Parmigiano Reggiano (not canned parmesan cheese), truffles, prosciutto, risotto and gelato. Al dente pasta was becoming the expected standard for cooked pasta. High quality extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar were the new darlings. It was an Italian food transformation. Since then, our food culture has only gotten better, and now we can get unique specialty items from all over the globe on almost any supermarket. I don’t know if anyone could have guessed that Pesto would end up being sold in refrigerated tubs, shelf-stable jars, freeze-dried envelopes and freezer sections. But, why would you buy it when it’s so incredibly easy to make?
Do yourself a huge favor, and make this as soon as you can buy fresh basil. There are only a few ingredients so be sure to buy the freshest, tender basil, preferably with small delicate leaves. Use good extra virgin olive oil. Toast the nuts for an extra layer of flavor. Every time I make it, I marvel at the vibrancy and freshness, and I often think back to the time I had my first bite. It was amazing then, and it still is. It is in fact, the definition of a classic.
Buon appetito!
